FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Do you guys make primer
We do not carry a primer for use with our paint but I can give you some suggestions to consider depending on the reason you need a primer. If you want to paint on metal (not plastic) and desire to add some tooth to the surface, I recommend the use of a flat Rustoleum spray paint; this also minimizes the need for extensive prep work.
Typically I do not use a primer on other types of surfaces unless I am painting over dark or unevenly colored surfaces. To cover these types of surfaces, I first spray a base coat of ModelersDP paint in white or gray. Most other primers would also be compatible with ModelersDP paint.
Typically I do not use a primer on other types of surfaces unless I am painting over dark or unevenly colored surfaces. To cover these types of surfaces, I first spray a base coat of ModelersDP paint in white or gray. Most other primers would also be compatible with ModelersDP paint.
ModelersDP paint is airbrush ready and therefore quite thin. What works for me is to pour a little paint onto a pallet, let some time pass so the alcohol evaporates and leaves a little thicker consistency of pigments in the paint mixture. You should have success brushing your paint into those tight areas.
Interestingly, ModelersDP paints started with the concept of washes for weathering and then we realized how easy the paint was to airbrush. Our goal was to have a carrier that would flash off quickly yet have great properties to spread the pigments of the paint. Thus, we use Isopropyl alcohol 91% which has some great properties for smoothing paint.
The down side, washes and airbrush paints are diluted to a point that spreads the layer of paint pigments a little too thin when brushed. To accommodate, I just use a small plastic paint palette, pour a little airbrush paint into one of the cups, and let some of the alcohol evaporate before brushing on the paint. If the paint starts to dry on the palette, I dip the brush in a little alcohol and mix in with the paint. The process works if you are using say a red over an orange, but a yellow over green.... you might be applying a lot of coats to achieve opacity.
The down side, washes and airbrush paints are diluted to a point that spreads the layer of paint pigments a little too thin when brushed. To accommodate, I just use a small plastic paint palette, pour a little airbrush paint into one of the cups, and let some of the alcohol evaporate before brushing on the paint. If the paint starts to dry on the palette, I dip the brush in a little alcohol and mix in with the paint. The process works if you are using say a red over an orange, but a yellow over green.... you might be applying a lot of coats to achieve opacity.
One of the great things about this paint is that it can be diluted as much as needed using Isopropyl alcohol -- although I have not made dirty windows, I have done a lot of other types of dirtying up. I would suggest starting with a very diluted paint (like 5% paint, 95% alcohol) in your airbrush, hit the windows with a layer -- there will be a nice mist coming from your airbrush at this ratio, let the alcohol dry and see if its dirty enough. With this paint, you can dilute it to spray a thin film of color or apply enough passes to get a completely opaque finish.
As for thinning, that is an easy question -- use simple and inexpensive Isopropyl alcohol, 91 percent.
I also suggest rinsing your airbrush, paint pot, and nozzle with water, and then rinsing with Isopropyl alcohol. These steps remove any dust or other contaminants.
I also suggest rinsing your airbrush, paint pot, and nozzle with water, and then rinsing with Isopropyl alcohol. These steps remove any dust or other contaminants.
As for the ratio of thinner to paint, just about any ratio works. However, if things are not working as expected, the secret is to dilute your paint, and if that doesn't solve the problem, dilute some more. The benefits of diluting are ease in mixing the paint, a smoother finished surface, a nice uniform fog or mist of color. The downside and because the particles of paint are being applied slower, one has to spend more time painting, allow time for the alcohol to evaporate, move the spray around on the surface of the model more slowly, and slowly build up the layers of paint particles in multiple passes of the airbrush. Bottom line, thinning is a balance between a person's desire to get the project done and the expectations of a satisfactory result.
There are many factors to consider when determining the thinning ratio. On one end of the spectrum when you want an opaque color, you can use the paint right from the bottle. The other end of the spectrum is weathering when one wants just a light fog or mist of a color. You can dilute 95% alcohol to 5% paint. When I weather, my paint is so diluted one can't tell there is color being sprayed.
There are many factors to consider when determining the thinning ratio. On one end of the spectrum when you want an opaque color, you can use the paint right from the bottle. The other end of the spectrum is weathering when one wants just a light fog or mist of a color. You can dilute 95% alcohol to 5% paint. When I weather, my paint is so diluted one can't tell there is color being sprayed.
For ultimate airbrushing success, ModelersDP paint needs to be mixed very well. A mechanical mixer is best. If you just shake the bottle and your arms (both arms) get tired, you are only about one quarter of the way mixed. If the paint has sat for a time, the paint particles settle out of the solution and really need some strong agitation to disperse again. Before mixing, a little alcohol to freshen the mix helps to break up the polar and molecular attraction between the different paint components within the bottle. The goal is to get everything back into solution. Filtering your paint will still get you satisfactory results, but you will just be wasting some of the paint on the filter.
Acrylic paint is truly a blessing when it comes to clean-up. Clean-up is so easy with just a water rinse and a quick spray of window cleaner (ammonia based) -- is really the component that is active. In quantity, ammonia agitates all the alcohol and paint particles by putting them into solution. One needs to rinse the window cleaner from the airbrush or model with water, and I recommend a final spray rinse of alcohol. Even a molecule or two of ammonia left on the surface of the model or in the airbrush is a contaminant that reactivates in the presence of water. You will see the result of ammonia, oil, or other similar contaminates as a small spec where the paint is repelled on the surface of the model. Not to worry, if you get a paint blemish, lightly blow some air on the spot until the sheen on the surface is gone. You can then lightly begin applying paint, but not to the point where the paint becomes dispelled from the spot. The process is repeated until the blemish can be covered.
We recommend using a mechanical mixer. We sell an inexpensive mini mixer on our website that works great for our bottles. Here are my tips:
• Use the split-stick attachment and submerge the tip in the paint (our paint bottles are over-sized to allow space for mixing)
• Or snip the end off of the whip attachment, leaving prongs about 1 1/8" long, pinch together to insert into bottle
• Add a few drops of Isopropyl alcohol to paint to enhance mixing
• Move attachment around inside of paint bottle (CAUTION: Spinning the mixer too fast will result in paint flowing over the sides of the bottle.)
• Use the split-stick attachment and submerge the tip in the paint (our paint bottles are over-sized to allow space for mixing)
• Or snip the end off of the whip attachment, leaving prongs about 1 1/8" long, pinch together to insert into bottle
• Add a few drops of Isopropyl alcohol to paint to enhance mixing
• Move attachment around inside of paint bottle (CAUTION: Spinning the mixer too fast will result in paint flowing over the sides of the bottle.)
